Clothespin Sack

This is a very practical sack for all kinds of things, but I like to use mine for clothespins - a camping necessity! It is worked in one piece, with a round bottom, ribs around the body of the bag and a simple drawstring. Choose a durable fibre, like cotton or hemp.

Craft: crochet

Skill Level: Rookie-Apprentice-Virtuoso-Genius

Skills: ch, hdc, dc, fpdc

Finished Measurements: approx. 6" from top to bottom (lying flat), 13" circumference

Note: Mine holds about 50 traditional spring loaded clothespins.

Gauge: 18 sts x 9 rows = 4" on 4 mm in patt (18 sts = 4" on 4.5 mm needles as given on ball band)

Yarn: 75g, 142 yds (130 m) of something durable, dk weight; if you would like a larger sack, I would suggest a worsted weight cotton and a 5.5 mm hook

Suggested Brand: 1.5 balls Marina Mercerized cotton (discontinued)

Needles/Hooks: 4 mm hook

Other Materials: tapestry needle or teeny crochet hook

Instructions:

Note: Insert hook through back loops for bottom only and through both loops for the rest of the sack.

Starting with the bottom of the sack, ch 6.

Join in a ring with a sl st.

Pm for beg of rnd and slip it as you go along.

Note: I do not “join” my rnds at the end of each rnd for this project, I simply carry on with the next rnd - you may choose to join with a sl st and beg the next rnd with a ch 2.

Rnd 1: 12 hdc in ring.

Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each st around.

Rnd 3: *1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st*, rep from * to * around.

Rnd 4: 1 hdc in each st around.

Rnd 5: rep Rnd 3.

Rnd 6: rep Rnd 4.

Rnd 7: *1 hdc in next 18 sts, 2 hdc in next st*, rep from * to * 2 more times (60 sts).

Body of Sack:

Rnd 1: sc in each st around, inserting hook through back loop as well as the st behind and below it (this creates a nice, durable edge on the bottom)

Rnd 2: inserting hook through both loops, *dc in next 5 sts, fpdc (front post double crochet) in next st*, rep from * to * around and around and around until your sack is one inch shorter than you would like the finished bag to be (for example shown, I worked 12 rows).

Next (eyelet rnd): *sk first sp, dc in next 3 sts, ch1, sk next st, fpdc in next st*, rep from * to * to beg of rnd (fpdcs should line up with previous ones worked).

Next: rep Rnd 2.

Cut yarn and finish with a sl st into next st to tie off. Weave in ends.

Finishing:

Make a ch string approx 26" long and weave through eyelets. I tied a knot in the end of mine and then another a few inches down to make a loop for convenient hanging. 

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River Rock Scarf

This pattern stitch makes a really nice, flat fabric that appears to be more woven than knitted. The rough edges combined with a neutral-toned variegated yarn gives it a natural look. Pattern includes instructions on how to substitute yarns.

Craft: knitting
Skill Level: Rookie-Apprentice-Virtuoso-Genius
Skills: knit, purl, sl1

Finished Measurements: dependent on yarn

Gauge: not important, instructions are written for almost any yarn
Yarn: approx. 200g of anything from sport weight to bulky weight
Note: sorry to be vague, but amount and yardage is dependent on the weight of yarn you choose - ask at your local yarn shop
Suggested Brand: your choice; I used a bulky weight wool for the example on this page or 4 balls of Noro Kureyon works well (seen on pg. 2)

Needles/Hooks: match to your yarn according to the label
Other Materials: tapestry needle or teeny crochet hook

 
Instructions:

CO 24 sts, or an even number.

Row 1 (RS): *K1, bring yarn forward, sl1 as is to purl*, rep from * to * to last two sts, K2.
Row 2 (WS): *P1, with yarn in back sl1 as if to purl*, rep from * to * to last 2 sts, P2.

Repeat these 2 rows until scarf reaches desired length. BO and weave in ends.

My advice for substituting yarn in a pattern is almost always the same: knit a gauge swatch that is at least 20 sts x 15 rows (depending on your yarn). The bigger your swatch is, the more accurate your measurements are going to be. Knit the swatch in the pattern stitch to be used.

Get a fine point knitting needle and count out how many sts you have in 2 or 4 inches (again, the bigger sample you are taking, the more accurate). I try to avoid counting the few sts at the edge of your fabric for accuracy. Also, you can't cheat and only knit a few rows - you need to knit more than that to be accurate.

Now you just need to know how wide you would like your scarf to be. For example, did you count 20 sts = 4 inches? For a six inch scarf you would need 30 sts.

For fabulous tassel making instructions, check out my "Seaflower Scarf", another free and easy scarf pattern.

Glass Bottle Scarf

This reversible scarf was designed with cold weather in mind. The pattern stitch is incredibly easy, so the knitting can get tedious, but is suitable for beginners. The lacy eyelets give the scarf some texture while trapping in warmth; they remind me of bubbles trapped in glass.

Craft: knitting
Skill Level: Rookie-Apprentice-Virtuoso-Genius
Skills: knit, purl, YO, P2tog

Sizes: XXXL (or half size)
Finished Measurements: 8" wide x 110" long for full size lying flat (including tassels)

Gauge: not important, 24 sts and 22 rows = 4" on 5.5 mm in patt (14 sts = 4" on 6 mm as given on ball band)
Yarn: approx. 375g, 716 yds (655 m) bulky weight yarn
Suggested Brand: 1.5 skeins Cascade Eco+ shown in 8462

Needles/Hooks: 5.5 mm straight needles
Other Materials: tapestry needle or teeny crochet hook


Notes and Tips:
> Make your YOs by wrapping the yarn over the top of the right needle towards the back and bringing it to the front between the needles, P the next st as per normal.
> For amazing tassel making instructions, check out my "Seaflower Scarf", another free and super easy scarf pattern.

Instructions:

CO 48 sts, or a multiple of 4 sts (24 sts for half size).

Row 1: K2, P2 to end.
Row 2: *K2, P1, YO, P1*, rep from * to * to end.
Row 3: K3, P2.
Row 4: K2, P2tog, P1.

Repeat rows 2- 4 until scarf is desired length.
BO loosely.

Cheat Sheet:

    * If you see P2, K2, facing you on the needles   
      (last row worked), work Row 2
    * If you see K1, YO, K1, P2, work Row 3
    * If you see K2, P3, work Row 4

Triton's Thinking Cap

It doesn't get much easier than this! Suitable for beginners, but it's also a fun, quick pattern for more experienced crocheters. This hat is wonderfully comfy and warm making it a great thinking cap. Will work with most yarn types and weights. 

Craft: crochet
Skill Level: Rookie-Apprentice-Virtuoso-Genius
Skills: ch, hdc, bphdc

Sizes: adult medium (22" circumference) and large (24" circumference) with instructions to adjust
Finished Measurements: (of example shown, size medium) 8" long x 11" across lying flat

Gauge: approx. 8.5 sts and 8 rows = 4" with 10 mm in patt;
14 sts = 4" with 6 mm (as given on ball band)
Yarn: approx. 100g bulky yarn, 2 strands held together; (you may substitute a different weight - see instructions for more details)
Suggested Brand: 2 balls Diamond Tempo Chunky

Needles/Hooks: 10 mm (or to match yarn)
Other Materials: tapestry needle or teeny crochet hook, scrap yarn


Notes and Tips:
• The decreases are worked with two strands of chunky yarn in mind. If you are substituting a different yarn that is much smaller, you may end up with a bit of a funny crown. My advice on this would be to rep Dec Rnd 1-2 once more before completing Rnd 3 and 4.
• There will be a slight seam at the back of your hat - make sure you use a marker (a piece of scrap yarn works well) for the beg of your rnd and that you start your new rnd with the correct st.

Note on yarn:

Getting gauge with this hat can be a little tricky, but it's very versatile. My advice is to choose two strands of the yarn that you like, as long as it's worsted weight or heavier. I like the effect of huge stitches by doubling bulky yarn, but the hat will work well with almost anything. The thicker your yarn, the faster it crochets up!

This hat is worked with a multiple of 4 sts + 1.

If you aren't using the recommended brand of yarn, ch enough sts so that the strand fits comfortably around your head (or the recipient's head); don't pull the strand really tight or else your hat will give you a headache.

For an accurate measurement, make sure to measure around your ears and forehead, not the crown of your head. Now, count your sts and make sure the number is divisible by 4, + 1. (Ex. 52 +1 = 53 chs not including the one on your hook).

If you are a little more experienced, another method for figuring out how many sts to ch would be to make a gauge swatch, measure your head with a measuring tape and then figure out how many sts per inch you have on your swatch and multiply it to fit the circumference, making sure it's still divisible by 4 + 1.


Instructions:

Ch 40 (44) sts + 1 (or the number according to your yarn type); join in the rnd with a sl st, being careful not to twist your sts. Pm for beg of rnd.

Rnd 1: hdc (half-double crochet) in each st around.
Rnd 2: bphdc (back post half-double crochet) in each st around.

Repeat these two rnds 5 times total or until hat measures approx. 4-5".

Dec Rnds:
Rnd 1: *hdc in next 2 sts, work 1 dec over next 2 sts as follows: *insert hook in next st, YO, pull through*, rep from * to * once more, YO, pull through all 3 sts*, rep from * to * to end of rnd.
Rnd 2: bphdc in each st around.
Rnd 3: *hdc in next st, work 1 dec over next two sts*, rep from * to * to end of rnd.
Rnd 4+: work 1 dec over next 2 sts until hat is closed up; cut yarn and tie off. Weave in ends.

Viking Scarf

This scarf is stretchy and cozy, super easy yet effective. The instructions are written to accommodate most yarn weights, giving you a lot of freedom to choose any yarn you like. It is constructed of a simple “mistake rib” with a crocheted scallop trim.

Craft: knitting and crochet
Skill Level: Rookie-Apprentice-Virtuoso-Genius
Skills: knit, purl, ch, sc, dc

Finished Measurements: dependent on yarn

Gauge: not too important, make a gauge swatch before casting on
Yarn: (200g) of Main Colour, (50-100g of Trim)
Note: sorry, but amount and yardage is dependent on the weight of yarn you choose. Ask for help at your local yarn shop.
Recommended Brand: your choice; I used a worsted weight wool for the example, and a sport weight merino for the trim; you can mix and match yarn types and weights, but choose a medium weight yarn (avoid lace weight, fingering weight or anything too chunky)

Needles/Hooks: match to your yarn according to the label; shown knitted with a worsted weight on 8 mm
Other Materials: tapestry needle or teeny crochet hook


Instructions:

CO 36 sts, or an even number.
Note: You may want to adjust the number of CO sts depending on the kind of yarn you choose and how big you want your scarf to be; I recommend making a gauge swatch in the rib patt before you CO. Check my “River Rock” pattern for more details on substituting yarns.

Also, decide whether you like the size of needles you are using; for a squishier scarf you might want to use a larger size than what the ball band calls for.

Rnd 1: *K2, P2*, rep from * to * to end.
Rnd 2: K1, *P2, K2*, rep from * to * to last 3 sts, end P2, K1.

Repeat these two rnds for rib patt until scarf is desired length, or until you run out of yarn. BO fairly loosely.

Crocheted Scallop Trim:

Choose your hook to match the yarn you are using (not to the knitting needles you used, unless it is the same weight of yarn).

Attach the yarn at the corner of one end of your scarf. Insert hook through the first st at the side and pull yarn through. (1 loop on hook). You will be working along the long side.

Set-Up: Ch 2. Work 2 dcs in same (first) st (half scallop).
Next: *ch 1, sk X sts, sc, ch 1, sk X sts,  work 5 dcs (scallop)*, rep from * to * to end of scarf.
Read following instructions for more details.


Now what is this “X” business, you might ask? Where do I stick those 5 dcs? That is the trick to this scarf.
Since you may be using two different weights of yarn, we can’t follow specific instructions on where to insert the scallops (5 dcs) and the scs along the side of your scarf. You may have to try a few scallops and rip it back if it isn’t sitting right.

Try to imagine how wide your scallop will be (or just try a few), and then make the sc after skipping half that amount of space. Confused? It’s easier than it sounds, just give it a try.
You will want the line of scallops to sit flat and even along the side of your scarf. Or if you like it to be frilly, then more power to you! 

Cut yarn and weave in ends.

For free instructions on making fantastic tassels, check out my “Seaflower Scarf”, another easy peasy (and free!) scarf pattern with thorough instructions for beginners.

Antelope Hat

There are some sweet, but simple details on this hat. There are instructions for a no-sew picot brim and cute little eyelets. This pattern is available in a slouch or beanie version.

Craft: knitting

Skill Level: Rookie-Apprentice-Virtuoso-Genius

Skills: knit, purl, YO, K2tog, blocking

Sizes: adult medium with instructions to adjust (fits approx. 21-22" head)

Finished Measurements: slouch - 9" long, 20" circumference; beanie - 6.5" long, 20" circumference (lying flat)

Gauge: 18 sts x 36 rows = 4" on 5 mm in patt; (18 sts = 4" in st st on 5 mm as given on ball band)

Yarn: 100g, 210 yds (192 m) worsted weight yarn (less for beanie)

Suggested Brand: 1 skein Malabrigo Merino Worsted (fair warning: I found a lot of variation in the gauge with this yarn - always knit a gauge swatch before you cast on!)

Needles/Hooks: 4 mm 16" circular; 5 mm 16" circular; 5 mm dpns

Other Materials: tapestry needle or teeny crochet hook

Notes and Tips:
> Use a natural fibre that will respond to blocking.
> For well-defined eyelets make your YOs loose.
> The first YO of your rnd will likely wrap behind your marker - don’t make an extra YO at the end of your rnd.

Instructions:

With 4 mm needles, CO 88 sts (or multiple of 8).
Join in rnd being careful not to twist sts, pm for beg of rnd.

No-Sew Picot Brim: (or see below for alternatives)
Rnd 1-2: knit
Rnd 3 (eyelet rnd): *YO, K2tog*, rep from * to * to end of rnd.
Rnd 4: knit

Next (”sewing” up the edge): *insert needle into next st as if to K1tbl, fold CO edge up with the WS folding in towards you and pick up the corresponding purl st from the WS CO edge and place it on the needle, knit these two sts together; K1*, rep from * to * to end of rnd.

Note: Don’t forget to skip one st on the CO edge when you are “sewing“ it up - you should be picking up every other st. You may choose to knit every st together instead of working a K1 - this makes a neater edge, but is harder on your hands.
Also, be sure you are picking up the correct st from the WS, otherwise your picots will be skewed.

Next: Knit 3 rnds.
Next: work a K1, P1 rib for 5 rnds.

Change to 5mm circs. Work the following 16 rnds twice for a beanie and 3 times for a slouch (or 4 or 5...).

Rnd 1: purl
Rnd 2-4: knit
Rnd 5: purl
Rnd 6 (eyelet): YO, K2 tog, rep to end of rnd.
Rnd 7: purl
Rnd 8-13: rep rnds 2-7.
Rnd 14-16: knit

Dec Rnds:
Change to dpns when sts get too tight on circs.

Rnd 1: *K5, K3tog, YO*, rep from * to * to end of rnd.
Rnd 2 (and all even rnds): knit
Rnd 3: *K4, K3tog, YO*, rep from * to * to end of rnd.
Rnd 5: *K3, K3tog, YO*, rep from * to * to end of rnd.
Rnd 7: *K2, K3tog, YO*, rep from * to * to end of rnd.
Rnd 9: *K1, K3tog, YO*, rep from * to * to end of rnd.
Rnd 11: *K3tog, YO*, rep from * to * to end of rnd.
Rnd 12: knit
Rnd 13: K2tog around.

Cut yarn and pull through rem sts; weave in ends.

Steam block with an iron and mist with a spray bottle; be firm with the brim so it doesn’t flip up.

Variations on the brim:

1. 1x1 rib: K1, P1 for 8 rnds
2. 2x2 rib: K2, P2 for 8 rnds
3. roll brim: knit until you have 1" of st st above the top of the roll (measure from the roll, not the CO edge)
4. OR work a roll brim combined with an inch (approx. 8 rnds) of rib