Clothespin Sack

This is a very practical sack for all kinds of things, but I like to use mine for clothespins - a camping necessity! It is worked in one piece, with a round bottom, ribs around the body of the bag and a simple drawstring. Choose a durable fibre, like cotton or hemp.

Craft: crochet

Skill Level: Rookie-Apprentice-Virtuoso-Genius

Skills: ch, hdc, dc, fpdc

Finished Measurements: approx. 6" from top to bottom (lying flat), 13" circumference

Note: Mine holds about 50 traditional spring loaded clothespins.

Gauge: 18 sts x 9 rows = 4" on 4 mm in patt (18 sts = 4" on 4.5 mm needles as given on ball band)

Yarn: 75g, 142 yds (130 m) of something durable, dk weight; if you would like a larger sack, I would suggest a worsted weight cotton and a 5.5 mm hook

Suggested Brand: 1.5 balls Marina Mercerized cotton (discontinued)

Needles/Hooks: 4 mm hook

Other Materials: tapestry needle or teeny crochet hook

Instructions:

Note: Insert hook through back loops for bottom only and through both loops for the rest of the sack.

Starting with the bottom of the sack, ch 6.

Join in a ring with a sl st.

Pm for beg of rnd and slip it as you go along.

Note: I do not “join” my rnds at the end of each rnd for this project, I simply carry on with the next rnd - you may choose to join with a sl st and beg the next rnd with a ch 2.

Rnd 1: 12 hdc in ring.

Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each st around.

Rnd 3: *1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st*, rep from * to * around.

Rnd 4: 1 hdc in each st around.

Rnd 5: rep Rnd 3.

Rnd 6: rep Rnd 4.

Rnd 7: *1 hdc in next 18 sts, 2 hdc in next st*, rep from * to * 2 more times (60 sts).

Body of Sack:

Rnd 1: sc in each st around, inserting hook through back loop as well as the st behind and below it (this creates a nice, durable edge on the bottom)

Rnd 2: inserting hook through both loops, *dc in next 5 sts, fpdc (front post double crochet) in next st*, rep from * to * around and around and around until your sack is one inch shorter than you would like the finished bag to be (for example shown, I worked 12 rows).

Next (eyelet rnd): *sk first sp, dc in next 3 sts, ch1, sk next st, fpdc in next st*, rep from * to * to beg of rnd (fpdcs should line up with previous ones worked).

Next: rep Rnd 2.

Cut yarn and finish with a sl st into next st to tie off. Weave in ends.

Finishing:

Make a ch string approx 26" long and weave through eyelets. I tied a knot in the end of mine and then another a few inches down to make a loop for convenient hanging. 

A clothes dryer is one of the most energy intensive appliances in the house. Save money and cut out harmful CO2 emissions by drying your clothes outside in the fresh air!

River Rock Scarf

This pattern stitch makes a really nice, flat fabric that appears to be more woven than knitted. The rough edges combined with a neutral-toned variegated yarn gives it a natural look. Pattern includes instructions on how to substitute yarns.

Craft: knitting
Skill Level: Rookie-Apprentice-Virtuoso-Genius
Skills: knit, purl, sl1

Finished Measurements: dependent on yarn

Gauge: not important, instructions are written for almost any yarn
Yarn: approx. 200g of anything from sport weight to bulky weight
Note: sorry to be vague, but amount and yardage is dependent on the weight of yarn you choose - ask at your local yarn shop
Suggested Brand: your choice; I used a bulky weight wool for the example on this page or 4 balls of Noro Kureyon works well (seen on pg. 2)

Needles/Hooks: match to your yarn according to the label
Other Materials: tapestry needle or teeny crochet hook

 
Instructions:

CO 24 sts, or an even number.

Row 1 (RS): *K1, bring yarn forward, sl1 as is to purl*, rep from * to * to last two sts, K2.
Row 2 (WS): *P1, with yarn in back sl1 as if to purl*, rep from * to * to last 2 sts, P2.

Repeat these 2 rows until scarf reaches desired length. BO and weave in ends.

My advice for substituting yarn in a pattern is almost always the same: knit a gauge swatch that is at least 20 sts x 15 rows (depending on your yarn). The bigger your swatch is, the more accurate your measurements are going to be. Knit the swatch in the pattern stitch to be used.

Get a fine point knitting needle and count out how many sts you have in 2 or 4 inches (again, the bigger sample you are taking, the more accurate). I try to avoid counting the few sts at the edge of your fabric for accuracy. Also, you can't cheat and only knit a few rows - you need to knit more than that to be accurate.

Now you just need to know how wide you would like your scarf to be. For example, did you count 20 sts = 4 inches? For a six inch scarf you would need 30 sts.

For fabulous tassel making instructions, check out my "Seaflower Scarf", another free and easy scarf pattern.

Glass Bottle Scarf

This reversible scarf was designed with cold weather in mind. The pattern stitch is incredibly easy, so the knitting can get tedious, but is suitable for beginners. The lacy eyelets give the scarf some texture while trapping in warmth; they remind me of bubbles trapped in glass.

Craft: knitting
Skill Level: Rookie-Apprentice-Virtuoso-Genius
Skills: knit, purl, YO, P2tog

Sizes: XXXL (or half size)
Finished Measurements: 8" wide x 110" long for full size lying flat (including tassels)

Gauge: not important, 24 sts and 22 rows = 4" on 5.5 mm in patt (14 sts = 4" on 6 mm as given on ball band)
Yarn: approx. 375g, 716 yds (655 m) bulky weight yarn
Suggested Brand: 1.5 skeins Cascade Eco+ shown in 8462

Needles/Hooks: 5.5 mm straight needles
Other Materials: tapestry needle or teeny crochet hook


Notes and Tips:
> Make your YOs by wrapping the yarn over the top of the right needle towards the back and bringing it to the front between the needles, P the next st as per normal.
> For amazing tassel making instructions, check out my "Seaflower Scarf", another free and super easy scarf pattern.

Instructions:

CO 48 sts, or a multiple of 4 sts (24 sts for half size).

Row 1: K2, P2 to end.
Row 2: *K2, P1, YO, P1*, rep from * to * to end.
Row 3: K3, P2.
Row 4: K2, P2tog, P1.

Repeat rows 2- 4 until scarf is desired length.
BO loosely.

Cheat Sheet:

    * If you see P2, K2, facing you on the needles   
      (last row worked), work Row 2
    * If you see K1, YO, K1, P2, work Row 3
    * If you see K2, P3, work Row 4